Although each day is so different and full in its own way, each day also has a certain rhythm to it. We get up, we pack, we walk and walk and then we arrive. Most towns have at least one or two albergues and the larger ones will have far more. I worry a little each day that we will arrive in a town and not find a place to sleep, but it hasn't happened yet. Most albergues sleep between 15 and 40 people, and they do fill up, particularly as the weather gets warmer. Occasionally, I book ahead, but not all places take bookings and I often just walk and trust I will find a place.
Once we arrive, we check in, get a stamp for our pilgrim passports, and head to the showers. After that, I hand wash my clothing from the day, although Beth likes to pay for laundry and I sometimes get in on that. Then food. Some towns just have bars, but most have small stores. I like to buy 6 eggs and boil them for the next day. Many bars and some albergues offer a pilgrim meal for 10 to 12 euros, a dinner that includes 2 dishes and a dessert, plus wine. I think I've had the pilgrim meal about half of the time, more than I might have otherwise because Beth enjoys the community aspect.
If nothing else is open, I'll get a sandwich, or a bocadillo, for the morning. In one town a few days back, a wonderful woman from Paraguay offered to make us fresh sandwiches in the morning when we asked for them the night before. Plus, she gave us some sweet cake drizzled with anis liquor--she explained that her family in Paraguay does this with whole cakes.
On day 16, we crossed the geographical centre of the Camino Frances, just outside of Sahagun. It felt incredible to be there and to know that we brought ourselves this far with only the strength of our bodies. It was the first time I really gave thought to the end of this journey, an end I'm not sure I'm ready for. Good thing I still have over 300 km to go. I might have to go back to the Camino once I reach the end, like the singing nuns said.
I walked for a short while one day with JJ, a young man from Ireland, and we talked about all of the decisions that lead us here and the ones that have shaped our Camino. How different our walks would be if we had made different choices--even small ones. Booking flights for a different day, deciding to walk one town further than planned, leaving an albergue at an earlier time--all determine who we meet and those people shape our experiences. I think about all the possible ways this journey could have turned out and I am profoundly grateful that the path has led me here. I am meant to be here, now, and I would change nothing.
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